So among other things from a trip to Jo-Ann's maybe a month ago, I bought this lovely black sateen swatch to be my neck frills. My plan was instead of making a collar that fastened in the back, or came around into the front to tie, I was going to thread a ribbon through the opening in the collar and have that tie in the back. That way, on those days when I didn't have a brooch or pin to put up, the bow would serve as it's own additional decorative touch. When I make a tiered one, I'll probably do the same thing; and I won't have to worry about getting more ribbon because I can simply pull the one I have out of the single tiered. I will probably go and buy white ribbon, to mix and match, as well as compliment the white sateen jabot that will eventually come about. If I don't screw up, I may make a black and white tiered, in white-black-white, and black-white-black. Ahh, such lofty aspirations... and maybe I'll get my technique down by then.
Now then, without further ado, here is my tutorial for making a jabot [like mine, where there is no fastening in the back].
For ease and convenience, gather all your materials together. Not pictured are the sewing machine, iron, and scissors; you know you'll need those of course. Because my jabot didn't have a fasten in the back like a button or those metal snaps, I cut down on costs, complexity, time, and additonal effort. I don't imagine adding the metal snaps would take much more than making the collar part longer, and following the directions for affixing them to your fabric. You can still follow this tutorial up until that point, where instead of leaving an opening, you'd sew the collar piece down and add your fastener of choice. As far as the measurements go, I had a yard of ribbon [since it's going front-back-then front to tie], about 40 x 14 inches for the jabot frill itself, and about 10 x 35 inches for the collar [it's going to be folded over, don't forget]. Also, sateen was an incredibly difficult fabric for me to work with, because it became unthreaded easily. What am I trying to say... it frayed easily, and I was contantly pulling the loose threads out. Pinking the edges may have helped, but I didn't spare the time to bother with it. Sateen does flow nicely though, and is super shiny. It's up to you which fabric you wish to use of course.
The first thing you'll want to do is cut out your rectangle that's going to be the gathered frill in your jabot. If you know of a different shape that you want it to be, cut it out in that way, but just be mindful that the ends will pull up when you gather, so it's not necessary to make things rounded persay. Then create and even hemmed edge around three of the sides. I did the bottom first, then folded the sides on top, since it was easier to hide that little overlap in the corner. You can snip out a tiny bit if it makes it easier. Then gather the unhemmed top and hand stich it into a gather. I found that making the stitches smaller up top allowed for more ruffling to come down through the rest. Depending on the size of your gather, it'll look a little something like the above. Set that aside to start working on the collar part.
When doing the collar part, you'll want to make sure it's not to thick or thin, for when you're going to turn it inside out. Because I was putting a ribbon through mine, I made it a bit thicker just for insurance, but it still fits under the collar of my blouses well. This is also where you want to decide how long around you want it to be. If you're opting to fasten it in the back, measure a comfortable circumference around your neck with a little slack for the seam. If you want it to go from front to back to tie in the front, double the circumference, then add extra for tying a knot or bow, depending on what you'd like. Cut out the appropriate length for the collar, and sew the edges of the sides down. Next, sew the top and bottom, but make sure to leave some space for the gathered piece in the middle. If you'd rather sew it all the way across and just sew the gathered piece to the back, you can do that too, but be mindful that you'll be feeling that ruffle against your neck, and it might be uncomfortable or tickle, depending on your fabric.
Next, turn your collar piece inside out. This is the first one I made, and it turned out being to thin for me to comfortably stick the ribbon through, so I cut another piece; the steps are still the same though. Pin the sides of the empty space you left for the gathered piece, then go ahead and iron down the crease. This'll allow you to remove the pins to repin the hemline with the jabot tucked into it, without having a mass of pins everywhere between the layers.
So it'll be something like this. All that's left is to bite the bullet and sew everything into place. If you want a little more stability than just the pins, go ahead and baste the gathered part to the back side of the collar, and re-pin it down. Try and get it so you have the ruffles in a place you want them, since you can't move them once they're down; don't worry, it won't affect the bottom as much, you can still shift those around, they just tend to move back if you fastened a top part overlapping.
The end result looks a little something like this. ^_^ The ribbon is threaded front to back to front and tied as it would be if around my neck. And there be my jabot made in a few hours over two days. I wore it with my coordinate and it looked right at home. I iam mmensely pleased with it, considering I was going crazy about it's overall look with the muslin, the sewing machine threw a fit, the fabric kept fraying, and I had only two days to do it once I finally said "Damnit, DO IT!" I'm going to wear it this evening in fact, with my cane accompanying.
Now without giving too much away, that's all for that. Next post will reveal all~ ahahahahahaha! *Koff.* Nghhhh, I hurt my throat promoting SM and GSO on Thursday... It feels really scratchy. *Sigh.* Way to add to my unenthused and overall unwell feeling.
I bid you goodbye for the moment, mina-sama, so I can tend to somethings and get tea into my system.
Eternally yours,
Il Ruinante Isaak
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